Saturday, July 18, 2009

Back to Bali


If you go to Bali, you must make sure to go to Ubud, tempting though it may be to stay on the beach (well, not in January). If it’s possible, I felt even happier in Ubud than I’d already been – lighter and filled with spirit. It’s known for its performances – there are several different cultural performances every evening. I didn’t see any of them; I just enjoyed the happy, relaxed feeling there. I went out to the sleeping platform to read in the morning – no need to get up and at ‘em. Then I went to a museum; Balinese art has a lot of detail, a lot of color, a lot of humans and animals. I did some window shopping along Monkey Forest Road, and went to Café Wayan, which Lonely Planet said had Death by Chocolate cake (I knew I had read it somewhere). How did it compare to the one in Kuta? Well, this one warranted a photograph!



I went to the art market – back when I made beaded jewelry (something I missed while in Morocco) there were things called Bali beads – silver, decorated with filigree, sometimes with a little chime inside. I had to buy Bali beads in Bali! The royal palace – the sultans that used to be in charge of their little pieces of Indonesia are still governing their little pieces, though I don’t know exactly how. But it was good to be the sultan in Yogya and not bad to be in the royal palace here either. Past a temple or two. Another art museum (you don’t need evening performances to experience culture in Ubud) and then a ricefield walk – peaceful, even when it started to rain (but, luckily, not pour). I was at the far end of town and didn’t want to walk all the way back in the rain, so I paid for a moto ride. I asked for a helmet – it wasn’t going to be automatically provided – and got on, breaking both Peace Corps policy and one of my father’s absolute no’s. Then again, those were for motorcycles, not motos. It was kind of fun, I hate to admit – but I wouldn’t rent one to drive by myself. It rained more at night in Ubud than during the day – which was wonderful for sleeping. I read some more, went back to the same café for dinner, bought a few little things, wrote cards and read some more (it was kind of nice not to have internet at the hotel).


Before I go on, I should note the front-page (or at least front-home-page) news about bombings at the Marriott and Ritz-Carlton in Jakarta. Generally when I travel I look for boutique hotels, bed and breakfasts, or, when in Peace-Corps mode, budget or mid-range places. I have points with some of the chains but haven’t traveled for business in a while! The place I stayed in Jakarta happened to be affiliated with Intercontinental, but I didn’t know that until I got there – it’s not on their signs or web site. And you’ll recall that it was in the old Dutch quarter – not near the center where these two hotels were. Still, it saddened me to see the news – both for the people who are dead and injured and also for Indonesian tourism. There had been encouraging news there lately, with what seemed to be a smooth presidential election. I wish them well.


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