
If you go to Bali, you must make sure to go to Ubud, tempting though it may be to stay on the beach (well, not in January). If it’s possible, I felt even happier in Ubud than I’d already been – lighter and filled with spirit. It’s known for its performances – there are several different cultural performances every evening. I didn’t see any of them; I just enjoyed the happy, relaxed feeling there. I went out to the sleeping platform to read in the morning – no need to get up and at ‘em. Then I went to a museum; Balinese art has a lot of detail, a lot of color, a lot of humans and animals. I did some window shopping along Monkey Forest Road, and went to Café Wayan, which Lonely Planet said had Death by Chocolate cake (I knew I had read it somewhere). How did it compare to the one in Kuta? Well, this one warranted a photograph!


I went to the art market – back when I made beaded jewelry (something I missed while in Morocco) there were things called Bali beads – silver, decorated with filigree, sometimes with a little chime inside. I had to buy Bali beads in Bali! The royal palace – the sultans that used to be in charge of their little pieces of Indonesia are still governing their little pieces, though I don’t know exactly how. But it was good to be the sultan in Yogya and not bad to be in the royal palace here either. Past a temple or two. Another art museum (you don’t need evening performances to experience culture in Ubud) and then a ricefield walk – peaceful, even when it started to rain (but, luckily, not pour). I was at the far end of town and didn’t want to walk all the way back in the rain, so I paid for a moto ride. I asked for a helmet – it wasn’t going to be automatically provided – and got on, breaking both Peace Corps policy and one of my father’s absolute no’s. Then again, those were for motorcycles, not motos. It was kind of fun, I hate to admit – but I wouldn’t rent one to drive by myself. It rained more at night in Ubud than during the day – which was wonderful for sleeping. I read some more, went back to the same café for dinner, bought a few little things, wrote cards and read some more (it was kind of nice not to have internet at the hotel).

Before I go on, I should note the front-page (or at least front-home-page) news about bombings at the Marriott and Ritz-Carlton in Jakarta. Generally when I travel I look for boutique hotels, bed and breakfasts, or, when in Peace-Corps mode, budget or mid-range places. I have points with some of the chains but haven’t traveled for business in a while! The place I stayed in Jakarta happened to be affiliated with Intercontinental, but I didn’t know that until I got there – it’s not on their signs or web site. And you’ll recall that it was in the old Dutch quarter – not near the center where these two hotels were. Still, it saddened me to see the news – both for the people who are dead and injured and also for Indonesian tourism. There had been encouraging news there lately, with what seemed to be a smooth presidential election. I wish them well.


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